Fur-sewing-machine attachment



Aug. 14, 1928. 1,680,433 Y A. SCHWARTZ FUR SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed May 2o, 19426 2 sheets-sheet 1 Aug. 14, 1928. 1,680,433

A. scHwARTz FUR SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT @fd/W' j @www Patented Aug. 14y 1928.

UNITED STATES ADOLF SCHWARTZ, 0F

K ENOSHA, WISCONSIN.

FUR-,SEWING-'MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

Application filed Hay 20,

My invention relates to fur sewing machines and more particularly to the ty e known as overseaming machines for stitc ing fur, suc-h as disclosed in prior United States patent to Raymond L. Plumle No. 897,486, dated September 1, 1908, an particularly to a means whereby such overseaming or fur sewing-machine is adapted for blind stitching operations on fur garments or fur trimmings.

- A further object of the invention is to provide a novel attachment or gauge for overseaming or fur sewing-machines of the class referred to, which obviatcs the necessity of employing a special blind stitching-machine and which permits efficient work in connection with different types or grades of fur for blind stitching without altering the construction of the overseaming machine, thus permitting the machine to be employed for its usual and intended work, upon the removal of the attachments comprising the present invention; which obviates breakage to needles and which permits minute adjustment for different thicknesses or grades of fur-so as to enetrate the hide without penetrating the ur, thereby producing neat blind-stitching operations.

Other objects and advantages will be apparent as the description proceeds.

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a plan view of an overseaming or fur sewing-machine of the type referred to with the top frame cap removed and the invent-ion applied thereto.

Fig. 2 is a front elevation.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged plan view showing the application of the gauge attachment tov the feed lwheels or disks of the machine.

Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the structurev shown in Fig. 3, partly broken away and in` section, on'the line 4-4 of Fig. 3, and

Fig. 5 is a sectional View taken on the line 5 5 of Fig. 3.

These fur stitching-machines as usually constructed comprise a pair of feeding disks between which the work is gripped and intermittently advanced, a needle parallel to the plane of the disks and reciprocating in the direction of its length to carry its oper-v ating end back and forth across the line at which the disks meet, and a looper which enters the loop of thread carried through the 1926. Serial Na 110,341.

,work by the needle and carries the loop back tothe other side of the work into such a position that the needle passes through the loop before entering the work in the formation of the next stitch. To perform these functions, the looper is given motions in three directions, one parallel to the motion of the needle, one toward and away from the p lane of the feeding disks, and one in. the dlrection parallel to the common tangent of the feeding disks.

Referring to the drawings in which the applicatlon of the invention is illustrated, there is shown an overseaming fur sewingmachine of the type heretofore referred to wlth the invention applied thereto. This machine comprises generally a framework or housing 6 having a driven pulley 7 which may be actuated from a treadle or motor in the usual manner to rotate the main drive shaft 8 of the machine. The housing encloses the operating mechanism driven from the shaft 8 and has acap .9 removably mounted on the top 'portion thereof. The inner and outer feed disks or wheels are designated at 10 and 11 and each has flanged knurled edges, as indicated at 12. The inner disk is mounted on a vertical shaft 13 driven by suitable gears 14 from the shaft 8, as -shown in the rior patent referred to, or in any other pre erred Way. The outer disk 1l 1s Journaled on a shaft 14 removably held at the outer end of a bent arm or gooseneck 15 secured to parallel rods 16 slidable in bearings 17 formed in the housing wall 6, and adapted to be actuated by the mechanism shown to move the disk 11 toward and away from the disk 10, although normally a spring 18 serves to hold the disk 11 firmly against the disk 10 as in the patent referred to.

The sewing or stitching mechanism includes a reciprocating needle bar 19 adapted to hold the needle 20 in a horizontal position for reciprocation across the plane` of the Work over the disks 10 and 11, and operates in and is protected by a groove 21 in a late 22 mounted above the top surface ofp the against rotation with the disk 11 by a clamping screw 23 engaged in a threaded socket in the shaft 14. The disk 11 .is thus free to rotate but is held against upward displace` ment by the plate 22. The needle bar is reals disk 11 and iixedly secured to shaft 14 ciprocated in the usual manner and has suitable tension devices in connection with the thread-holding and feeding means of the machine including a guide 24 and an eye 25 through which the thread 26 is guided.

Co-operating with the needle and other parts of the stitching mechanism is a bent looper 27 having a thread-enga ing foot or end 28. The looper is mounte on and actuated by a bar 29 connected to the operative mechanism and a camming device 30 by which mechanism the looper has three distinct movements imparted thereto, namely, a movement in a direction parallel to the movement of the needle, a. movement to cause the looper to rise and fall at the proper time and is rotated to move the operating end 28 of the looper in an are, and in a direction transverse to the path of the needle and substantially tangentially to the edges of the feed disks which are disposed in contact.

The details of construction of the machine as above described and certain other parts to be hereinafter referred to, constitute no part of the present invention and are illustrated and described in a general way to illustrate the method of application and operation of the present invention, but reference may be had in detail to the patent heretofore referred to for a better understanding of the details of construction and operation of such type of sewing-machine, although the same is fully understood and appreciated by those acquainted with the art. However, 1t may be mentioned that the gooseneck or arm 15, which is adapted to be slid in and out with the rods 16 movino in the bearings 17, in order to move the disk 11 toward and awa from the disk 10 for engaging or releasing the work, may be actuated in any suitable way through the medium of a suitable lever actuated by the knee or otherwise in connection with a rod or link 31 and a lever 32 engaged with the lower rod 16 so as to slide the latter and, therefore, the gooseneck or bent arm 15 in and out and correspondingl move the outer feed disk 11 toward an away from the inner feed disk 10.

A machine of the above description is adapted primarily for sewing furs and particularly for overseaming operations, being of the ty e for overseaming work and not adapted orblind stitching. My invention, to be presently described, 1s for the urpose of rendez-innr suchmachine adapta le for blind stitching and producing neater work on fur garments and fur trimmings with quicker and more eilicient operation and in adapting the ordinary overseaming machine for this purpose, as well as obviating the breakage of needles, permittin minute adjustment for different grades o furs in connection with staying fur garments, reinforcing seams or for tapping or padding trimnnngs or other blind stitching operations, and obviating the necessity of employing a special blind stitching-machine, with a considcrable saving in the cost of sewing apparatus and maintenance. In this connection a substantially U-shaped block 33 is provided on the vertical portion of the bent arm or gooseneck 15, having a front portion 'or leg 34 and a rear portion or leg 35, providing aY slot in which the arm is received and held by set screw 36, through the leg 34, in clamping engagement with the vertical portion of the bent arm. The leg 35 is recessed as at 37 to accommodate the front bearing 17 and an adjustment screw 38 is engaged through athreaded aperture in the block 33 and adapted to abut the housing 6, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, in order to keep the spring 18 from pulling the arm 15 entirely back. Since the outer feed disk 11 is carried by the arm 15, it is apparent that the disk 11 is maintained in any desired relation to the inner feed disk 10 by this means, whereby the space between the disks is made to accommodate work of different thicknesses or varying numbers of lies. As illustrated, the work or fur is esignated at 39 and has the usual hair 40, while a lining 41 is shown engaged over the folded hide 39 of the fur between the notched, serrated, or knurled feed edges of the disks 10 and 1l, so as to feed' the same in a straight line tangentially to the peripheral edges of the disks when the disk l0 is driven and the two disks rotate in the directions indicated by the arrows in Figure 3. The needle 2() is adapted to cause the stitching operation to take place only through the hide portion of the fur 39 so as to produce a bllnd stitch,

.owing to the fact that the thread does not enetrate and show outside of the hair surace 40. Ordinarily a curved tapered bar is fastened on to the housing 6 at the lefthand side of the same and extends forwardly to the edge of the disk 10 substantially tangentially and then around between the two disks, but this does not render it possible to adjust the disks or adjust the eeding of the work, so that blind stitchin operations can be produced. In fact, this l is positioned in a plane with t e top of tiie disk and any alteration would dispose it out of a horizontal plane and ineffective for use.

In accordance with the present invention and in eon'unction with t e use of the adjustment b ock 33 and screw adjustment or gauge screw 38 for spacin the disks to aocommodate the folded wor edgewise a further gauge or attachment is em loye which comprises a rooved plate 42 aving a reduced latere? extension 43 fitted over the plate 22 outwardly of the groove 21 and provided with a flange 44 extending downer usualwardly against the outer edge of the plate 22. The groove of the plate 42 forms a shoulder 45 at the inside engaging the inner er opposite edge of the plate 22 and the extension 43 is provided with a slot 46 in alignment with the roove 21 to receive the set-screw 23, where y in addition to. the plate 22 being adjustable to align with the needle 20, that is, angularl on the setscrew 23 as a center and radially and rotatively with respect to the outer feed disk ll, the plate 42 is also rendered adjustable radially or diainetrically, but by reason of being formed with the reduced portion or extension 43 and a cut-out 47 at its forward portion forming said reduced extension, the groove 2l is left exposed. In the groove 48 of the plate 42 and confined between the shoulder 45 and al longitudinal flange 49 at the opposite side of the groove is a springinetal orylexing steel gauge strip 50, secured adjacent its outer end, as indicated at 51, and having a set-screw 52 threaded through a riveted nut or sleeve 53 vertically near the inner end ot' the groove 48 to contact with the top surface of the plate 42 in the groove, whereby the spring or spring-plate may be raised or lowered and adjusted to a minute degree. The spring-plate 50 projects inwardly of the gauge plate 42 and over and beyond the flange of the feed disk 11 to a point between the feed disks laterally offset from the path of the needle, at which point it is provided with a depression or downwardly curved part 54, and beyond this with a llaterally extending tapered portion 55 which is bent or curved upwardly in convex formation opposite to the portion 54, so as to provide a concave bottom portion or channel which is adapted to receive the work and guide the same in the manner shown in Figures 3, 4, and 5.of the drawings. By adjusting the set-screw 52 the elevation of the work between the feed disks may be minutely regulated so that the needle will simply penetrate part of the hide of the fur, as shown at 56 in Figure 5, whereby the stitches 57 will not show on the surface of the fur, thus producing what is known in the trade as a blind stitch for different thicknesses. j

By this means, it will not be necessary to alter the construction of the machine for its usual work, and it is simply necessary to remove the ordinary curved arm, such as shown in Figure 2 of Patent No. 897,486, extending from the housing A, where it is held by a screw and extends around the feed disk C and between the latter and disk C',y

to apply the block 33 to the bent arm or gooseneck 15, if desired or necessar and to apply the gauge attachment 42. wing to the grooved or notched plate 22 beinfr retained, the needle 20 is protected and the annoyance of constant breakage of needles obviated, thus overcoming al serious objection to. ments.` he new gauge 42 also may be mounted on any other suitable support such as the frame or housing 6 in place of the curved arm in the patent or otherwise.

1i/Vhile I have shown and described my invention in a preferred form, I am aware that various modifications and changes may be made without departing from the principles of the invention, the scope of which can be determined by reference to the appended claims.

I claim as. my invention:

l. In a gauge of the class described, a plate having an attaching portion, a resilient' gauge member mounted on said plate near one end, and means toflex the gauge member to raise o1' lower the same at its free end.

2. In a fur sewing-machine attachment or gauge, a. plate having an adjustable attaching portion, and a spring strip carried by the plate and having an extended end, said strip being anchored at one end and adapted to be adjusted intermediately to raise or lower the Same. 4

3. In a fur sewing machine attachment or gauge, a plate having a slotted raised attaching portion adapted to t over the grooved plate above the outer feed disk of the machine for adjustment in and out, clamping means engaged through the slot and with the grooved plate to hold the first plate in adjusted position, a spring strip mounted on the plate and having an extended end, and means for adjusting said spring strip vertically toward and away from the plate, as and for the purpose described.

f4. Ina gauge attachment for overseaniing fur sewing-machines to adapt the saine for revious devices or gauge attach-.

blind stitching operations, a plate adapted for attachment to the grooved plate above the outer feed disk thereof and for adjustment inwardly and outwardly thereon, a flat spring having one end connected to the plate and extending in the direction of a chord of the disk and having its free end adapted to receive the work upwardly thereagainst, and a set-screw engaged through the spring and with the top of the plate to adjust the spring vertically.

5. In combination with an overseaming sewing-machine ofthe class described having inner and outer feed disks adapted to receive the work therebetween and a notched needle guide above the outer disk adapted to receive the needle of a reciprocating bar operating over the inner disk of an attachment adapting the machine for blind stitching or staying comprising a grooved late having a slotted extension adapted to a justably clamp on the guide, a spring strip'secured to the grooved plate in` the groove thereof and having a curved end portion extending laterally between the disks and above the same, whereby to regulate the projection of the folded work therebetween to cause penetration of the needle only through the hide of the fur, and means for adjusting the spring toward and away from the plate.

6. 'lhe combination with an overseaming machine having inner and outer feed disks, a bent arm supporting the outer feed disk for movement toward and away from the inner feed disk, means to adjust the outer feed disk in spaced relation to the inner feed disk in combination with t/ne arm and frame of the machine, and an adjustable gauge member mounted above the outer feed disk over the usual notched guide thereof.

7. In combination with an overseaming machine of the class described having inner and outer feed disks, a bent arm supporting the outer feed disk, means to adjust the arm to space the outer feed disk from the inner feed disk, a looper and a needle-Carr ing bar operating over the inner feed disk, a notched guide mounted on the axis of the outer feed disk and extending inwardly radially, the notch thereof receiving the needle when reciprocated forwardly, a gauge plate having ai bottom groove ittin over the notched guide and a slot receiving the set screw of the guide to adjustably clamp the plate radially, said plate having a grooved portion at one side of the notched guide, a spring strip secured to the plate in the grooved portion, a set-screw carried by the spring and engaging the top of the plate to minutely adjust the spring up and down, said spring extending inwardly and having a reversely curved and laterall extending portion positioned over the adjacent edges of the feed disk, as and for the purposes described.

8. A gauge attachment for fur sewingmachines of the class described having inner and outer feed disks adapted to receive the folded work therebetween for blind stitching operations, comprising a supporting part, a spring carried thereby and adapte to be flexed toward and away from the surface of the supporting part, means for flexing said spring to adjust the same toward and away from the supporting part, said spring having an extension with a laterally extending portion above the edges of the disks to receive the work upwardly thereagainst.

9. In an attachment for fur sewing-machines having the usual inner and outer feed disks, a notched guide and needle bar, a gauge support detachably carried by the machine and adjustable in and out over one of the disks, a spring gauge strip carried by the support and extended over the space between the disks at one side thereof, and a set-screw carried by the spring for engaging the support to flex and adjust the spring vertically on the support, said strip having a portion adapted to extend over the work for guiding the same between the disks.

10. In a gauge of the class described, a plate having an attaching portion with a bottom channel adapted to fit on and attach to the grooved plate above the outer feed disk of a fur sewing. machine and a parallel top channel at one side thereof, a resilient gauge member mounted in the top channel, and means to adjust the inner end of said gauge member vertically in the top channel.

ADOLF SCHWARTZ. 

